Why Oils Matter for Curly Hair (and How to Use Them the Right Way)
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Curly hair and oil have a complicated relationship. Many people assume oil hydrates hair, but that’s not the case. Oil is fantastic for curls when used properly, yet it can also leave hair feeling dry if applied the wrong way. Let’s clear up the confusion and walk through the best methods.
Oil vs. Hydration: What’s the Difference?
First, it helps to separate two key ideas:
- Hydration means water. Curls get hydrated when water-based products — like leave-in conditioners, creams, or gels with water listed first — penetrate the hair shaft. Hair absorbs water best when it’s wet.
- Oil means sealing. Oil doesn’t deliver water; instead, it acts as a barrier that holds hydration inside the strand. Once water is in, oil slows down evaporation and protects the cuticle.
Think of your hair like skin. You’d apply a moisturizer first, then finish with body oil to keep that moisture from escaping.
How Oil Can Work Against You
Trouble starts when oil goes on dry hair before hydration. Here’s why:
- Oil coats the hair shaft.
- That coating repels water.
- When you try to spray water or apply a hydrating product, it can’t get through.
The result? Hair feels greasy on the outside but stays thirsty inside. That’s where the myth that “oil dries hair out” comes from. Oil doesn’t remove moisture, but it can trap dryness if used in the wrong order.
How to Use Oil for Healthy, Defined Curls
Used correctly, oil transforms curls. It brings shine, tames frizz, and helps define natural patterns. Here are three proven ways to make it work for you:
1. On Soaking Wet Hair (Most Effective)
- Wash and condition as usual.
- While hair is dripping, apply a water-based leave-in or curl cream.
- Add gel for hold if you use it.
- Finally, rub a few drops of oil between your palms and glaze over your wet hair before drying.
This technique seals in hydration and keeps curls bouncy for longer.
2. As a Finisher
- Once your hair is fully dry, take 1–2 drops of oil, rub it between your hands, and scrunch lightly.
- This softens gel cast, adds shine, and reduces frizz without flattening curls.
3. As a Pre-Shampoo Treatment
- Shield strands from harsh shampooing.
- Help break down buildup.
- Protect the scalp.
Because you wash it out, it won’t block hydration later.
Which Oils Work Best?
- Light oils for fine or medium hair: Jojoba, argan, grapeseed, almond.
- Richer oils for thick or coarse hair: Coconut, avocado, olive.
Choosing the right oil depends on your hair’s density and porosity. Start light and adjust as needed.
I have formulated the perfect general Oil Serum which works grat on all hair types and you can find out more here:
The Golden Rule: Water First, Oil Last
To keep curls strong and healthy:
- Hydrate with water-based products.
- Seal with oil to lock it in.
- Skip applying oil to dry hair unless it’s before a wash.
Stick to this order, and you’ll enjoy shiny, defined curls without losing the hydration they need.